“If everyone knew how easy panettone, the classic Italian fruit brioche, is to make, they’d bake it all the time. I had my doubts about the recipe because it calls for three envelopes of yeast, and my only complaint about Craig Claiborne’s cooking is that his bread recipes often contain too much yeast. But it turns out you need the yeast to give the dough a punchy lift in the oven. This panettone, which is much more a cross between a soufflé and bread, somehow manages to be both buttery and airy, so it has the richness of Danish pastry and the lightness of a cotton ball.” -Amanda Hesser, The New York Times Essential Cookbook
We liked this and ate it, but I don’t think it’ll be something I’m dying to make again. All the yolks that went into this recipe (8 of them) created another project (see the Peppermint Meringue candy). And was it good? Absolutely. Was it great? Ehhh… the peppermint meringues were better.
-April 5, 1981: “An Italian Treat for Easter Sunday,” by Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey.